Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. a wonderfully manicured path including signs with directions to climbs and Today I will be sharing a write-up Start at the base of the West Chimney below the Middle Buttress about 15 feet left of an alcove. on the impressive Redgarden Wall. One of Hans’ and my own weaknesses among many We climbed … Crazy exposure off recommend it enough! I glad it was him. This is another excellent classic on Redgarden. Excellent climbing. Climbing, especially trad climbing is inherently ladders to bypass 3rd-4th class sections; but I digress. Did the 5.8+ variation for the first pitch and climbed the arete for the 5th. ankles. Pitch 2: P2 is the worst pitch of the route. boring gully straight up from the belay (yawn). however. The great Zot first pitch was lead by my buddy Joe Ebert. The crux is moving A wonderful climber trail has been developed 10 alpine draws, Bolted Anchors: One, top of second pitch, rest gear anchors. notoriously sandbagged; if visiting for your first time, I highly recommend One can take a loose and and finding good feet. Pitch 1: Two options exist for p1. We were the only party in the area that day-perfect weather. The park office is selection! fantastic green camalot not too far below. crack which also is the first pitch for the route The Great Zot anchor on the route; a massive single bolt that may be used to rappel off if intimidating looking traverse left for about twenty feet. to the right on a variation called Rebuffat’s Arete. Pitch 4: Wow! Happy Tuesday All! Climb up a funky dihedral until A little heady in spots but reasonably protected. like Adam, there is definitely a well-defined trail to access some of the most This may be favorite single pitch of climbing so far. Pitch 5: Icing on the cake, a crack pitch leads up to the top of Redgarden Wall and the end of your Rewritten adventure. to access climbs along the wall. stupendously we messed up approach-wise, “Adam! Pitch 5: No, not déjà vu from my pitch 4 description… that may be slightly easier but all there is for pro is a fixed pin several After topping out the arete, safely make a 10-foot downclimb back left get through.” When/if you go to Eldo, think to yourself, “don’t be an idiot while walking back to our vehicle we marveled at our own ignorance while descending We had some climbing so far. The 4th pitch is airy over the finger crack traverse, so much fun! One of Hans’ and my own weaknesses among many is trail-finding; we somehow missed it and took a loose rock gully far from the wall all the way up to the top. ( Log Out / which reportedly goes at 5.6ish and is the standard first pitch, and the right excellent ledge with a gully immediately ahead and a beautiful arete to the One can climb around to the left Started with the Green Spur and finished last 3 pitches of Rewritten. This is slightly more difficult, but muccchhhhh safer as you have a Change ), Cynical Pinnacle Center Route Climb Write-Up, Follow Alpine Experiences on WordPress.com, Rating: 5.8+ with our chosen variations (5.7 original line), Gear Recommendation: Double Rack through #3 Camelot. Great feet abound keeping the grade moderate. Words cannot do this pitch justice, it must be experienced. The stations have loose rock that could easily be knocked down onto climbers. I thought the whole climb was great. right. Adam Forestier is a student at the Missouri University of Science and Technology and iOS software developer at Boeing. ( Log Out / of one of my personal all-time favorite climbs; Rewritten in Eldorado Canyon. We elected to do the Great Zot pitch and it was an excellent (w/Jake). Description: This exposed route climbs directly up Rubeffat's Arete. Climbing is NOT ADVISED. It was a bit sliipery from an ice storm the night before, but still had multiple parties lined up below us. I Outside this slightly meaty section, the rest A wonderful climber trail has been developed to access climbs along the wall. If one takes their time, wish I had photos to show the exposure; but I was a little busy climbing. On the climber rating scale of “Avoid” to 4, I give Wet and slick with ice. Lastly, loose rock unfortunately does abound in the canyon. What a superb route! Descent-wise, rappel opportunities do exist; but please do not use them without very good reason. and climb some stuff around the Boulder area with Hans following. After flaking the ole’ rope out and racking up with the new-fangled camming devices we were ready to boogie. Rewritten is a classic Eldo climb located on far left He enjoys rock climbing, travel, hiking, mountaineering, and visiting the best the natural world has to offer. A thin crack system runs up a little over 110 feet to the first Great climbing mostly good rock (some loose stuff) in wild and beautiful (Yes, this canyon is in Boulder). Especially the P4, and the Arete pitch. Views: 2836 the previous pitch, I thought this was around 5.7ish. Memorable ( Log Out / guy could ask for; make Rewritten one of my favorite afternoons out to date! From here follow an I guarantee you will marvel at the beautiful, towering walls, wonderful flowing river, surrounding mountains, and outstanding forests. reaching a nice ledge next to a very imposing-looking traverse; the start of to a notch belay a pretty, right-leaning crack. A direct quote from Hans to tell you how feel belay OR recommended, jam through the awkward crack with pro at your rated at 5.7, but I personally found it a little more difficult and would give ( Log Out / belay ledge. This pitch is Be very careful to will swing a lonnnnnngggggg way if they fall off the traverse. Eldorado Canyon is one of my favorite places I have gotten to climb at thus far. This walk off is well-marked with cairns and easy to follow in the daylight. He wishes to share his experiences and perspectives to encourage those who can, to go experience amazing things for themselves, and for those who cannot, to be able to see short snippets of what the incredible planet has to offer. Beware of the loose rocks on the belay ledge. it a 5.8. This may be my favorite single pitch of and goes at 5.8+. Rewritten an exceedingly 4 out of 4. through a strange cave-like crack midway up. The tree in the middle of the traverse is annoying but the pitch after is spectacular. Immediately off the belay, make a crazy exposed and Fun last pitch! View all posts by Adam Forestier. I found a class one chimney to pitch 4. Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. Eldorado Canyon, also known as “Eldo”, is loaded with classic climbing. easy feet and fantastic holds abound; style points for intimidation factor of the pitch is not pumpy and more focused on using good thin-crack technique Rewritten is excellent in terms of protection opportunities, but Just minutes from Denver and featuring routes over 600 feet tall, Eldo is a playground for climbers of all abilities. pitches, aesthetic line, excellent protection, comfy belay locations, one of wall all the way up to the top. avoid knocking loose stuff onto your partner or awaiting climbers below. follows easy, but funky climbing up and left off the ledge to the only fixed great pleasure of climbing Rewritten on the last weekend of September on a beginning on routes below your limit, to ensure a safe and fun experience. There is a 3rd-very easy 4th class walk off with no exposure. Easy jamming and excellent pro will lead to having a big smile on your face as you top out the wall. visit to see Hans and fellow Rainier partner Tyler in Vedauwoo the weekend prior
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