For more, see the Fox in the Forest Privacy Policy. Eldo has world class rock climbing with short approaches and an incredible variety of styles and difficulty. Coming from an aquifer located 8,000 feet under the earth, it’s fed by rain and snowmelt on the east side of the Continental Divide. Eldorado Canyon features some of the most classic guided climbing adventures for all climbers. Boulder Canyon and the Flatirons offer up more classic Colorado climbs to enjoy. Since the early days of American rock climbing, Eldorado Canyon has been at the forefront. 'Eldo', as the locals call it, has seen generations of climbers scale its mighty walls. There are a few wag bag stations within the park on certain trails, but climbers are encouraged to bring their own for when nature calls. Eldorado Canyon and Boulder, in general, don’t offer up a lot of places to camp. What are you waiting for? Here are the ten essentials that I always bring with me, no matter where I’m climbing or what I expect the conditions to be like: The weather can sometimes be very unpredictable in Eldorado, often changing rapidly and drastically. Problems come up on the first pitch: it’s runout and there’s a lot of rope drag issues. As one of the best locations for Front Range climbing, it’s been a crowd favourite since the 60s, with routes that can and will push your limits. Note: This website participates in affiliate marketing. Not quite in a Gunks kind of way, but in its own, uneasy choss and suspect pro kind of way. Pro Tip: There is no overnight parking in Eldorado Canyon State Park, so be sure to find a different place to sleep! Added by Brynn Schmidt. If you’re climbing in Eldorado Canyon from out of town, there’s a variety of nearby activities you can enjoy. But if you pay attention, and spend some time exploring a few tried-and-true climbs, you’ll start to fall in love with climbing in Eldo. There are many beginner routes that will help to get you acquainted with the rock and the canyon. The best way to explore the best of Eldorado Canyon climbing if you’re new to the sport is to hire a guide. He spearheaded development in the area and his climbs are known to be tricky and reachy for us mere mortals. Thank you for subscribing to our newsletter. She'd rather be dirty than done up. Whale’s Tail, a 5.2, is three pitches long at a very low angle. It’s like a mini Flatiron; you’ll practically be hiking. The descent is also testing if you don’t know the area. If you’re new, go with someone more experienced and follow. Having survived the eras of piton smashing and mad bolt drilling, Eldo is truly a place of adventure where a comprehensive skill-set is demanded to negotiate often tricky descents, acrobatic sequences and sustained movement. Every year, the park closes certain crags to protect nesting raptors like gold eagles, so pay close attention to which crags are off-limits. Although there is sport climbing and bouldering, there are fare better climbing areas in Colorado for both of these activities. Most of the climbing is multi-pitch and bolted anchors vary. Education is a passion of Jesse’s, and he’s taught a handful of climbing courses, including crevasse rescue. However, you’ll have no issues with finding accommodations in Boulder; there’s Airbnbs a plenty. You need to be a solid crack climber before leading this climb. Currently based out of Denver, I typically guide in the Front Range area of Colorado. Friends of mine who are used to Lumpy Ridge think everything in Eldo is a sandbag, but once I got used to Eldo I started to feel more secure there than at Lumpy Ridge. In Eldorado Canyon State Park, you’ll find yourself in a trifecta of three amazing climbing areas, located about seven miles from downtown Boulder. These walls were the site of the traditional climbing revolution of the … It’s really well-protected on bolts with great liebacks and stems, and you can link pitches to do it more quickly, too. The adventure stories you want in your inbox. Check your promotional tab. First, you’ll need to pay a $10 entry fee per vehicle. If you’re looking for tall walls with a variety of climbs, then you should for sure look into the Redgarden Wall. However, the Bomb (5.4) or Recon (5.6) link-up to the West Overhang (juggy 5.7 roof) is generally on solid rock. Ready to have your confidence shaken? Nearest city. For those looking to up their game just a touch, the Wind Ridge (5.7) offers a few breathtaking, yet awkward pitches to break into more moderate climbs. Overall Eldorado Canyon climbing is a rewarding and fun experience. These might not be the most exciting climbs in the world, but they will give you a flavor of the better side of Eldorado Canyon climbing and are true to the grade. Most vehicles should be able to navigate the potholes, but it’s unpaved and can be muddy after rains. Located on the Bastille, this climb literally starts up a beautiful hand crack right along the road. They offer exceptional service, employ amazing and well-knowledged guides, and give a fair price. He started his career in the wilds of the Pacific Northwest, followed by a stint in China and Tibet, and has now landed back in his home state of Colorado. Duration. As one of the. Alternatively, you can opt to hit the road and enjoy one of the most scenic drives in Colorado along the Peak to Peak highway into Estes Park. The Yellow Spur and Blind Faith will do just that. In my many years of climbing, I’ve learned being prepared can save the day (and lives!). However, during the winter months, expect cold, sometimes wet, and snowy conditions. Great place to learn to rock climb. What starts out as a bright and sunny day can quickly turn once you’re up on top. Eldorado Canyon is a home to numerous bird species, mountain lions, black bears, golden eagles and rattlesnakes (be on the lookout!). Handcrakekr Direct takes the cake for the best 5.10a with a beautiful hand crack that will get your heart pumping. It’s a beautiful crack, but also one of the Eldorado climbs that sees a lot of accidents so you need to be experienced for this route. Over 500 multi-pitch climbs that will test your skills, Lots of picturesque photo-ops, a rich climbing and natural history, and lots of wildlife, Fun newbie routes, demanding 5.10s and high-end routes that will challenge even the best climbers, Often crowded, you’ll need to wait in line for the most popular routes during peak season, Spotty cell service; thorough planning required, , you’ll find yourself in a trifecta of three amazing climbing areas, located about seven miles from downtown Boulder. There’s excellent conditions from spring, through summer and into fall, but I climb and guide a handful of days in the dead of winter as well. You can’t go wrong with any climb you choose in Eldorado, and the park’s high traffic testifies to that. If you can do well for yourself on the Wind Ridge, Bastille Crack is your next stop. Join thousands of outdoor enthusiasts subscribed to our newsletter! Climbing in Eldorado Canyon can be odd and it requires some getting used to. If you’re into runout, then Icarus (5.6 R) will take your breath away, especially the virtually un-protectable, airy arete finish. Some of the classics (like the Bastille) are great routes for swealtery July and August days thanks to the shade. The conngolomorate sandstone takes a little getting used to. Placing gear (protection) at will is not a given by any means, and inspecting pitons, fixed cams or passive gear before clipping your rope to it is a must.
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